Battery storage sized to your evening consumption, and a straight answer on whether you need one at all.
The battery is the most expensive part of a solar installation and it is not always the best use of the money.
Surplus sent to the grid is credited under RD 244/2019 simplified compensation, but the credit cannot exceed the energy part of your monthly bill. Past a certain system size you are giving energy away. A battery turns that surplus into energy you use in the evening.
| Specification | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Usable capacity (kWh) | Nominal capacity times depth of discharge. 10 kWh at 80% DoD is 8 kWh usable; at 95% it is 9.5 kWh |
| Guaranteed cycles and end-of-warranty capacity | How many full cycles the warranty covers and how much capacity is guaranteed at the end |
| Chemistry | LFP tolerates heat better and lasts longer than NMC, which matters more in the Canaries |
| Continuous and peak power (kW) | Decides whether the battery can run the oven, air conditioning and pool pump at the same time |
| Inverter compatibility | Batteries only work with listed inverters and communication protocols |
| Backup output | Whether the system can power selected circuits during a cut, and how fast it switches |
| DC-coupled (hybrid inverter) | AC-coupled | |
|---|---|---|
| Best for | New installations | Adding storage to an existing system |
| Conversion losses | Lower: solar charges the battery on the DC side | Higher: DC to AC to DC to AC |
| Existing inverter | Replaced by a hybrid | Kept |
| Backup | Available on most hybrids | Depends on the battery inverter |
Whether your current inverter can take a battery directly depends on the model. We check it before quoting, not after.
Adding storage is a modification of the self-consumption installation and has to be reflected in the certificate and registration. We handle it.
Send a recent bill and a photo of the roof on WhatsApp. You get an honest first answer, including when it is not worth doing.